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Introduction to Traditional Climbing

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Introduction to traditional climbing

3 days

Moderate

15+

4500

Traditional climbing course with a focus on individual, fundamental skills on how to safe multi- pitch.

The course goes over three days, where the two first days will takes place in a low-land location suitable for the objects below. On the last day we will as a group plan and complete an alpine climb in the Sunnmøre Alps. Which climb will depend on the group and weather conditions.

  • Usage and limitations of traditional climbing gear
  • Placement and assessment of protection
  • Anchors; what is a good anchor?
  • Multi-pitch routines and communication
  • Leading on traditional gear
  • Rappell anchors and rappelling several pitches
  • Introduction to self-rescue
  • Preparation and planning a multi-pitch climb

Maximum number for participants is 4. The course is also suitable for private tailoring and groups.

Get in touch with us if you need a place to stay during the course.

Nyttig info

This course is suitable for those who have climbed a while outside on bolted sport routes, and would like to learn more about traditional climbing. The course will teach you how to place your own protection using cams and wires. The objectives is to give the participants the necessary mental and physical skills to be able to climb traditional on multiple - pitch climbs.

It is recommended that you have experience from climbing on lead at bolted sport climbing crags as well as belaying climbers on lead. You should be used to spending several hours outside. By the end of the course, you should have gained the tools to safely gain experience on multi-pitch routes on your own in accordance with your climbing ability. A personal assessment of each participant will be given by the end of the course, if wanted.

We have an age limit of 18 years of age on this course, or 16 years accompanied by a parent participating on the course.

  • NF Alpine Climbing instructor for 3 days
  • Borrow protections pieces (cams and nuts) and ropes
  • First aid and safety

  • Personal climbing gear: Harness, helmet, belay device, 120 sling, prussik x2 (rentable for 250NOK)
  • Food and drink
  • Transport to and from course start
  • Lodging

  • Backpack (ca. 30L)
  • Shell jacket
  • Down or fleece jacket
  • Climbing/Mountaineering boots
  • Food and drink
  • Personal climbing gear

Lodging is not included in the course price, but oftentimes we camp in the area where the course is held. If you wish to have lodging arranged this can be done upon request.

The course can be arranged for private groups on other dates than those posted.

The guide will always put the group's safety as a priority. This means that weather, wind, and other conditions will always provide guidance as to whether the planned route can be completed or not. Should the weather be too bad, we as the organizer will cancel, and you will be offered to move the trip or a full refund. Remember to read through our booking conditions and safety rules as this is automatically part of the agreement when you book a trip.

DAY-BY-DAY Program

  • Placement and assesment of cams and nuts
  • Belay stances, our safe harbor in the mountains. What defines a good belay stance?
  • Rope team routines, communication
  • Trad leading with back-up.

  • Leading on trad, without back-up
  • Rappel anchors with gear and natural anchors, multi-pitch rappels
  • Introduction to buddy rescue, tying off your belay device and escaping the belay.
  • Guide books on climbing and how to read them. Grading systems etc.

  1. Sofa Route to Mohns topp (grade 4)
  2. Seks egg at Magerholm (grade 5-)
  3. Liadalsnipa east ridge (grade 3)
  4. Store Brekketind (grade 3)